Hey, folks, Glenn May here of BassResource. com,and today I wanna talk to you about the essentialsthat you’re gonna need for crankbaiting. Now, if you’re new to crankbaiting or if you’vebeen doing it for a while, you’re gonna pickup a few tips hopefully more than just a couple,but these are the things that you absolutelyneed to know for crankbaiting. I’m gonna talk about the rod reeling equipment. Some of the modifications I do to my crankbase before I even use them and then I’m gonnago through the different techniques and retrieveswe use for most crankbaits. First, let’s start with the equipment startingwith the rod. The rod you want is a medium power moderate-to fast-action tip, something that looks likethis, see this, see how it bends like that,that’s kind of what you want, you want thatnice, long bend, parabolic bend not like rightup to the tip like some rods, nice long rod,that’s what you want. You want that kind of give, it’s for two reasons. Number one, yeah, it makes it easier to castlighter crankbaits, but also it has that give,these crankbaits have little treble hookson them and if you use a rod that’s prettystout, that gives the leverage for the fishwhen it’s fighting back to be able to pullfree of those hooks. So you want a rod that’s kind of a spring,gives a little bit when he does those surges,to be able to keep that fish locked up andget that lunker to the boat. This combination here is an Okuma Helios Rodwith a. . . paired with an Okuma Helios AirReel, great combination even though on thisrod sometimes with rods you got to, it sayson the side, “Hey, this is a crankbait rod,this is a jig rod,” this doesn’t say thatexactly, but it has those characteristicsof a great crankbait rod. The other thing I have on if you noticed thisis a mini-guide system, little tiny guideson it. And the reason I have these on here is becausethey’re much more sensitive than other guides,they’re closer to the blank, there’s lessof a lag there so there’s less distance forthe vibration to transfer to the blank soI can feel everything and you might thinkwell, if you’re crankbait fishing, the fishwhen it hits it, he just wallops it, he’sabout to rip the rod right out of your hand. Well, that’s true in some instances, but alot of times, those fish will come right up,they’ll swim behind the bait and they’ll mouthit, they’ll just grab it and immediately feelthat it’s not natural and blow it right backout. And you might not even feel that. Sometimes the vibration of the crankbait willgo from a tick, tick, tick, tick, tick toa thud, thud, thud, thud, thud and they’llchange back to a tick, tick, tick, tick that’sit, that’s all you feel, or sometimes it’sjust the cadence of the vibration might changea little bit. And so a real sensitive rod is essential topick up on those things. So when you’re selecting a bay casting reel,you want one that has like a six to threeor six to one gear ratio or higher. This one, in particular, this is the OkumaHelios Air Reel, it has a 7. 3:1 one gear ratio. I like that for two reasons. Number one, when I make that long cast thefirst thing I wanna do is crank it down reallyfast and get that crankbait down to a runningdepth and then slow it down, so I can getit down faster with a higher gear ratio. Also, what I like is sometimes I like to burnback the crankbait like a vibrating crankbait,burn it back really fast so a higher crankgear ratio helps me do that. The other thing is I use for the line I usefluorocarbon line. I like to use Tatsu Seaguar Line because fluorocarbonhas a lot of different advantages for crankbaiting. First of all, like I mentioned with the sensitivity,fluorocarbon is really sensitive, and so you’regonna feel all those vibrations that I justtold you about. Also, fluorocarbon is more abrasion-resistant. Now, I mentioned or I haven’t mentioned yet,but I’m going to is the different areas youwanna fish you’re going to be throwing instumpy fields, you’re going to be throwingin logs, pilings, rock piles, you’re goingto be fishing rip-rap, things like that andthis line is gonna be draping across all thatand it’s gonna get nicked, it’s gonna havesome fraying and abrasion, you can’t get awayfrom that, but Seaguar Fluorocarbon Line ismuch more resistant to that than other lines. And you might think, “Why don’t I just usethe braid?”Well, for crankbaiting, really what you wannause is fluorocarbon because fluorocarbon isnot as buoyant as other baits or other lines. As a matter of fact it kind of sinks whereas,monofilament, copolymer, braid, it has buoyancyto it and those lines are gonna prevent thelure from reaching its maximum advertiseddepth. Fluorocarbon on the other hand, it sinks,it’s not as weighted line per se, but it doessink, it’s gonna allow that bait to get toits maximum depth. So we’ve talked about the line, we’ve talkedabout the rod, we’ll talk a little bit aboutthe reel. This is a baitcasting reel, I’m using 12-poundtest line, freshwater spinning reels are greatfor 10-pound test and lighter. I like to use 12-pound test and heavier andthat’s what baitcasting gear is are designedfor. It’s also like a winch and when you’re crankingall day long, that power winch it makes iteasier to crank and you’re not going to getas fatigued. I’m using 12-pound line because thicker diameterline it has a heavier diameter line, 15-pound,17-pound or higher has a thicker diameter,it has more resistance in the water and thatagain is gonna prevent the bait from reachingits maximum depth. 12 pounds is what I wanna go with so you mightthink well, that logic, “Hey Glenn, why don’tyou use 8-pound test?6-pound test?”Well, as I’ve mentioned before, you’re goingto bringing it across rocks, stumps, logs,those types of things and that lighter lineisn’t gonna hold up to that kind of abuse. 12-pound is about the minimum that you wannago with. So that’s a good all-around, all-purpose line,12-pound fluorocarbon again straight fluorocarbon,I don’t use any leaders on it that’s why Ican get away with using the mini-guide systemhere. I don’t have to worry about any knots or anythingtrying to get through the guides. All right, so that’s the equipment. Let’s talk a little bit about the baits themselvesand what I do here. First off, when you get a bait, you want tocheck the hooks, you want to check the hooksfor two things strength and sharpness. Take the hook point, and drape it across yourfingernail. If it scratches it, great, if it tries todig into your fingernail while you’re scratchingit, even better. You want ultra-sharp hooks. If they feel really dull, that’s not a verygood quality hook now, of course, you cansharpen it and I know how to sharpen them,I can do that but if it’s dull right out ofthe box, that tells me it’s made out of asoft material and that hook is gonna dullup a lot faster. Also, what you might wanna do is take a pairof pliers and see if you can’t bend the hookpoint out a little bit. Don’t wrench on it because every hook willbe able to bend at some point, but if it takesrelatively ease for you to bend that hookpoint out, the hook out, that’s not a goodsign because if you got a nice lunker tiedonto that crankbait, if he makes a lunge,she’s apt to straighten that hook out, itcan get loose. So for those type of hooks, I replace them,I just get some number four’s, number six,round bend treble hooks and you can get them,Gamakatsu makes them and Mustad makes themand they’re all good quality hooks, but Ireplace them again not all hooks need to bereplaced, but check them just to make sureand those that need to be replaced I’lldefinitely do. The other thing I do is I remove the splitring. I take them right off, I don’t like splitrings for a couple of reasons. Number one, the knot tends to find itselfright where those wires connect, and it rubsagainst the line and it can break the line. The other thing is I don’t think split ringsgive the bait enough movement, they don’tallow it to move as freely. So what I do is I replace it with the snapjust like that, I put a snap on here and Iuse it for two reasons. That snap is a little bit bigger than a snap. . . than a split ring so it allows the bait tomove a lot more freer, plus with the snaphere, I can swap out baits really easily. While I’m out there fishing, I don’t haveto bother with re-tying, I just unhook it,drop the bait, put another one on there, I’mready to go. It’s real fast and easy, pretty effectiveway to crankbait fish. All right, so we’ve talked about the equipment,talked about some of the modifications, nowlet’s talk about the different retrieves thatare most productive for crankbaits. Now, obviously the first thing you can dowhen you get a crankbait is just chunk andwind. Just throw it out there and bring it rightaround straight back and that can be very,very effective, a very effective way of catchingfish. But a quick couple of variations on it, ifyou’re fishing and you haven’t got a bite,then you can do two things, you can just speedup the retrieve or slow it down, simple asthat. Sometimes they just want it faster, sometimesthey just want it slower and that’s a greatway to catch a lot of fish. Another thing if you wanna do with this isyou can dig it in the ground, if you’re fishingsay, for example, six feet of water, graba crankbait that dives 10 feet or deeper andyou wanna dig that bell into the ground, evenif there isn’t anything there, it’s just straightflat muddy bottom, dig it into it and youwant that bait to deflect and deflect offthings and go off in different directions. Especially if you’ve got rocks, if you’vegot rocks, it’s banging on those rocks andbouncing off and going in different directionsthat often triggers a bite, even if the fisharen’t biting. This is the cool thing about it, bass areinstinctively programmed by nature to attack,injured and disoriented bait fish. And that’s exactly what you’re mimicking here. The bill of the crankbait will hit a rock,it’ll stop for a minute and then it’ll gooff in a different direction and you keepdoing it bang, bang, bang, bang, bang, itlooks injured, it looks confused and that’swhat triggers a bite. Often, when the fish aren’t even in a feedingmood, they’ll hit it anyway, that’s what Icall force-feeding the fish to bite. So that. . . if you’re doing that and say forexample you’re in deeper water and you don’thave those things to bang into, you can’tget it deep enough into the ground, you canmimic that just by a stop and go, retrieve,watch my hand, you go around here and thenyou stop, crank it, stop, crank it, stop,that’s all you’re doing, very simple. And do it erratically, don’t like crank, crank,crack, stop, crank, crank, crank, stop, justsometimes you make five cranks, sometimesyou make two and then you stop and the longeryou pause, changes, you want that erraticbehavior, don’t make it a methodical retrieve,just erratic behavior and that can be reallygood, the fish is following it, follow, follow,follow it, suddenly you stop it. It’s right in his face and it has to reactto it and a lot of times you get a bite rightwhen you pause it. Another effective retrieve is the sweep retrieve. This works the same sort of principle as stoppingthat bait, but this time you’re using therod to do it, cast it out there, crank itdown a few feet and then just pull it backwith the rod as it pauses you’ll want to reelat the slack, pull back with the rod, if itpauses, reel up the slack. You can do it at different speeds, you cando it really fast really hard, but practicewith it, try different types of retrievesand figure out what the fish want. It’s funny because they’ll hit it on a pause,you often set the hook right when you sweepthe hook, sweep the rod that’s kind of a coolway of doing it. Now, the next retrieve that involves a differentkind of bait. And that is a vibrating or lipless bait. I like to throw Savage Gear Soft Vibes, thosework really well, but any type of vibratingbait works, what I’m talking about are theselittle guys. Let me put this on real quick. Like I said, it’s really easy to change themout with this, I love these soft vibes, lookat this, it doesn’t have rattles in it, soit doesn’t give away any unnatural sounds,but look at that, it’s very soft, so it looksreally soft and natural in the water. But with these, these types of baits whenthey fall, they fall straight down and theyvibrate as they fall, use that to your advantage. What I like to use is what I call the yo-yoretrieve, throw it out there, let the baitsink, let it sink for a little while and thenwhat you’re gonna do is bring it up and letit fall just like that and then bring it upand as it falls, just reel in the slack andthey’ll fall and then bring it back up andlet it fall and bring in the slack line. A lot of times, the fish will hit it as itsfalling and when you’ve reeled back on itto bring it back up you actually automaticallyset the hook, it’s kind of a cool way of fishing. It can be very, very effective especiallyin the fall when the shad are dying, that’sa great retrieve because the fish are keyingon those dying shad and that’s what it lookslike, it looks like a dying shad, so excellentretrieve. All right, so some of the different techniquesyou can use, again, this isn’t super comprehensive,I’m not gonna get into all the more advancedtechniques, that’s another video that’s coming,but these basic retrieves and all this stuffI just told you are essential to successfulcrankbait fishing. If you have any questions, be sure to leavethem down on the comments section down belowand as I always say, for more tips and tricksvisit BassResource. com for the answers toall your questions, visit BassResource. com.